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I have been following a post on Facebook where someone without any instrumentation on his boat has been asking for suggestions about what to purchase/install. While Frost does have functioning wind and depth instruments, it’s not far off of that blank canvas. In fact, as far as I’m concerned, the depth gauge we have is next to useless.

Even though the numbers shown by our depth gauge seems to be accurate enough, the display is basically unreadable in any kind of light. I find it extremely frustrating to be inching our way into an anchorage, looking for a suitable spot to drop the hook, without the ability to easily see how skinny the water is getting. For this reason, it is the first piece of the instrumentation puzzle that we have decided to replace. Of course, the fact that we are out of the water now and the new depth system will require a different transducer (the piece installed in the hull which actually measures the depth) was no small motivator for getting the job done here in Trinidad.

What did we decide to install? We ordered a Raymarine i50 Depth System with Thru-Hull Transducer. It’s going to cost us a bit more than if we had purchased it from the link I just shared but that’s life in the Caribbean. I am told that it should arrive here by today so hopefully we can get on with the installation tomorrow. I’d really love to have Frost back in the water by the end of the week!

On the subject of depth gauges, how do you like to set yours, so that it displays the actual depth of the water, or the water below your keel(s)? We typically opt for the latter although I can understand why some people choose to do otherwise (the depth on the gauge matches the chart).

38 Comments

  1. Just look over the side to see how deep it is. People have been doing it for years! 😉 Looks like a really good unit Mike and something that will plug up to other Raymarine units.

  2. We recently installed a new B&G depth/log gauge and transponder. The fibreglass hull on our Whitby 42 was so thick we actually had to grind a bit away on the inside to get the nut to screw down on the unit. Plenty of hull left so no issues. It just shows how much thicker the old boats are compared to new production boats these units are now designed for. It will be interesting to see how you go with the Amel. Cheers

  3. Oh! And as the old saying goes – There are two types of sailors, those that have run aground and those that tell lies.

  4. I’m with you, I only care about the depth between the keel and the bottom.

    • I think either works, as long as you know what it’s set for. One of my friends, an experienced captain, told me to set it for the bottom of the keel but to tell all other helmsmen working for you that it is set at the waterline. 🙂

  5. Most professional captains who have spent time on ships and barges will tell you bottom of keel – since their vessels will change draft with the weight of the load on board. For pleasure craft, I have always felt that it was easier to have the depth match the chart.

  6. Always the keel for me

  7. Below the keel and add a few inches for good measure. So when it reads 0.00, you still have those precious inches.

    Jon

  8. Actual depth, pretty much for the reason most people do -to match the charts. Occasionally I’ve had to navigate with just charts and the depth gauge and was glad it was set that way. Okay, what I really could use is better instruments all around. Had my chart plotter decide to freeze up in the middle of tricky channel.

  9. I too vote for the keel depth. 0 = aground. This is especially useful when you have a guest at the helm.

    Also, I go back and forth, but I like setting my chartplotter to fathoms. Considering most small sailboats have a keel depth of 1-fathom, it’s fairly simple to judge depths by the measurement of “# of keels deep.”

  10. Again Mike thanks for posting this, The vessel we are buying only has depth (Raymarine i40) and i will need to add wind and GPS/chart so any insight and research you give is valuable to me. I curious to see what you guys purchase and why and how it all integrates with your system.

  11. Blank canvasses can be pretty exciting- or very daunting. You have some very expensive paint to put on that canvas!

  12. We prefer the depth to read the same as the chart, not below the keel. About the price, consider yourself fortunate that you’re making this purchase and installation in a country that honours the “Yacht in Transit” program and does not levy any charges. This is not the case in many countries, particularly those that are not accustomed to visiting yachts ……

  13. I am shocked at the price of these. I am used to prices for inland lake boats and you can get a depth gage and transducer for about $100.

  14. Just replaced the depth instrument on
    Ainulindale with the i50. So far so good. FWIW, we go with depth under the keel.

  15. We use more of a “fish finder” type where you can see the lumps and bumps when coming in to anchor. You can also tell what type of bottom it is.

      • I think every brand has one in their range. They are aimed at the speed boat and fishing market. We personally use an old stand alone Sitex chartplotter/sounder with about a 4″ screen, but have it on the sounder function only. It is very slow as a chartplotter, but it is yet another back up for the main chartplotter.

  16. If you set your depth below the keel, you are never plagued by mathematical confusion which seems to increase according to the beers ones drinks and the number of guests asking questions while navigating a tricky channel.
    It’s also good for scaring other sailors.
    “How deep is it over there?”
    “1.2 meters,” you reply, too lazy/absent minded to add 1.75 m, and they go anchor somewhere else.

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