Anchorages – islands either have ’em or they don’t
As we travel from island to island we’ve noted that there is a wide variance in the quantity and quality of anchorages available for cruising yachts. I’ve noted in previous posts that islands that contain legitimate hurricane harbors tend to attract cruisers for long-term stays. Super-protected hiding spots aside, even harbors which offer shelter in normal conditions are, on some islands, lacking.
What does a good anchorage require? I think the most important quality that it offers is shelter from the seas. Some might have said shelter from the wind and although that may come with the previous requirement, it may not. There are certain places, Horseshoe Reef in the Tobago Cays for example, or Bird Island Reef in Antigua, where boats simply anchor behind a reef as opposed to behind an island. While the reef blocks the waves, it does nothing to hinder the wind. In normally settled conditions this can be quite pleasant.
If the wind is going to be really honking though, some shelter from it would be nice too. This is pretty much going to require anchoring behind an island. While dropping the hook anywhere in the lee of an island might suffice, we’d probably prefer something a bit more. For example, a place where the anchor might hold well would be nice too! In order for this to happen, we’ll need a decent sea bottom that the anchor will bite into but is free of obstructions that could snag it, and also water of a suitable depth, not too deep nor too shallow.
Unfortunately, there are certain places where, even with protection from the dominant wind and seas, the waves will still wrap around the island and create an uncomfortable swell. A spot where this does not occur would definitely be desirable too.
What about those rare situations when the wind or seas clock around from their dominant direction? This is where, in my opinion, we begin to shift from a normal anchorage into a storm anchorage. Obviously protection during these situations would be desirable too but fortunately, at least here in the Caribbean where the trades almost always blow from the NE to the SE, it isn’t required all that often.
Shopping, scenery, social events and security may also enter into the anchorage equation. For some people, these qualities, especially the first three, are more important than they are for others. And let’s not forget internet access. That is a biggy these days! While some might choose these in lieu of the things I mentioned above, in this post I’m focusing more on the “protection for the boat” angle than on anything else.
Why bring this up today? Because, along with a bazillion others boats, ZTC is currently bobbing around in a mooring field in a commercial port in water unsuitable for swimming. As you might imagine, this is not what we would typically select as a stopping point. Why not move? Sadly, it seems as if there are very few options. There are anchorages on some of the nearby islands bordering Trinidad which, if time permits, we hope to visit. On Trinidad proper though, from what we have read, there are very few good spots. Does that keep cruisers away? Definitely not! Our guidebook refers to Chaguaramas as “the Mecca of Caribbean Cruising. Cruise Central.” Many boaters would agree. At this point I’m not so sure we’d include ourselves among that group but perhaps, as time moves forward, our view will change. I doubt it, but I’ll wait a bit before I cast final judgement.
Swimming is VERY important!
Agreed. That is NOT happening here.
Too much people dust for me long term. A week would be good for me.
I assume you are referring to Chaguaramas. While the boat yards may be dusty, the harbor doesn’t seem to be at this point. I don’t know why anyone would sail all this way for a week though unless they were either coming here to do work (and then a week would likely not be enough) or were passing through on their way west.
Tobago Cays = No people dust
Mt. Hartman Bay = Some people dust
Chaguaramas = Too much people dust
😉
Way too much!
Beautiful picture! A commercial port with no swimming … bummer!
That photo is not actually of the port. It is looking at some of the outer islands that I mentioned in the post.
Sopers Hole in Tortola, Red Hook, USVI and Charlotte Amalie harbour are other ones that were too commercial for us. I did however get a neat video of a horse doing some physio therapy swimming in Red Hook. He was backed into the water and then he swam around ours + 2 other boats @ anchor with his trainer hanging onto his neck.
Interesting.
Soper’s Hole is too commercial??? WOW. You must like it super quiet.
We were only in there for a brief time to pick up a friend but if I remember correctly, the place is lined with businesses and full of mooring balls. I wouldn’t choose to stay there either.
Try Scotland Bay and tie to shore, There is also a little indention big enough for a couple of boats around the first headland heading toward West Mall, although the music can get loud there at times. We also like to anchor at Chacacharie (sp) where the leaper colony was located. I highly reccomend checking it out, 10 years ago, there were still medical records and xrays scattered around and lots of lod ruins to explore. But the truth is Trini does not have great anchorages, but it’s little sister, Tobago, will make up for it! Enjoy!
Any bay where you have to tie to shore is not a good anchorage as far as I’m concerned. That doesn’t mean that we’d avoid them altogether but I do not like having to do that. The island with the leaper colony is where we hope to go and explore, once we get some stuff organized here. As for Tobago, we may or may not end up going there. We’ll see.
What exactly makes the water so unsuitable for swimming? Is it contaminated with something and if so what?
I ask because in my imagination I visualize all of the Caribbean islands as being so open to the sea that the daily tidal change would keep the water clean. My only personal experiences are growing up in Miami along with much sailing in the Bahamas & Belize. In all these locations the water was quite good for swimming.
There is far too much garbage floating in the water. This morning there was also a large fuel slick all around our boat.
Speaking of swimming in anchorages….Do you find that boats do not adhere to discharging requirements and just leave their seacocks open and flush everything overboard?
Yes.
Every time you answer a question like this I laugh my ass off! Yes.
At a ratio of 7:1, what consitutes as a good depth?
We prefer not to anchor in water deeper than we can free dive. That doesn’t always happen but that is our goal. As to your question, the answer depends on how much swinging room you have.
Whats your free diving? Some can go down to 150′ others can only do 10-15′.
🙂
The latter… 15-20′.
20 feet is a long way down when you look up!
While on the discussion of freediving/ scubadiving. Have you considered becoming scuba certified?
Yes. Someday.
Hi, Mike;
I’ve been following you for a few months. I spent a few months in Grenada about 35years ago after crossing the Atlantic, and my interest was piqued. I’m curious as to why you are going south now, versus north, and why not go south in hurricane season?
We are here so that Rebecca can take the STCW 9 course at the university. The course runs from Dec. 3-7. If we weren’t doing that we would be heading north too.
By the way, we talked about going south to T&T for Carnival, but never did. Have you thought about being there for that?
It’s the wrong time of year. We’ll have to settle for Grenada’s carnival. 🙂